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	<title>Carlo Wolff &#187; Travel</title>
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	<link>http://www.carlowolff.com</link>
	<description>Cleveland Rock &#038; Roll Memories</description>
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		<title>For the record</title>
		<link>http://www.carlowolff.com/2010/09/05/for-the-record-2/</link>
		<comments>http://www.carlowolff.com/2010/09/05/for-the-record-2/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 05 Sep 2010 14:50:26 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Carlo</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Northern Ohio]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Personal]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Travel]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Cleveland]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Detroit]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[jazz]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.carlowolff.com/?p=1039</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I’m on my way to the Detroit Jazz Festival yesterday to cover it for Jazz Times and the tire pressure warning light on my Scion xB is on. Car’s riding OK, but still. I try to inflate the tires myself, but I’ve never been good at that (I&#8217;m even less mechanical than my father was). [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I’m on my way to the <a href="http://www.detroitjazzfest.com">Detroit Jazz Festival</a> yesterday to cover it for <a href="http://www.jazztimes.com">Jazz Times</a> and the tire pressure warning light on my <a href="http://www.scion.com">Scion</a> xB is on. Car’s riding OK, but still. I try to inflate the tires myself, but I’ve never been good at that (I&#8217;m even less mechanical than my father was). I’m worried. I don’t want to drive 180 miles in a dangerous condition. It could be electrical, but then again…</p>
<p>So I pull into a Lexus dealer who tells me to go across the street to <a href="http://www.metrotoyota.com">Metro Toyota</a>. I’m looking to pull in, get the problem solved, and be on my way. It’s a very cold call. </p>
<p>At Metro, I tell the service desk my problem, and this tall guy says no hassle, he’ll take care of it, he won’t even write it up, go into the waiting room and he’ll be back to me. Long story short, 20 minutes later, he tells me my car’s ready. The tires were woefully low on pressure, they need to be replaced by winter, two valve stems were missing (I’d forgotten to put them back on after my ill-fated inflation attempt), he’d had the car washed, no charge.</p>
<p>Unreal. I didn’t think service like this existed anymore. Maybe it’s because Toyota is trying to repair a public relations image its recalls have badly damaged. Maybe it’s because Toyota wants me to remain loyal. It didn’t feel calculated at all, however.  It felt genuine. That’s why I want to go on record thanking Bruce Schad, the service manager at Metro Toyota, for what he did. Service like that should go on the record. </p>
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		<title>Putting the past in perspective</title>
		<link>http://www.carlowolff.com/2010/05/25/putting-the-past-in-perspective/</link>
		<comments>http://www.carlowolff.com/2010/05/25/putting-the-past-in-perspective/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 25 May 2010 21:18:31 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Carlo</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Books]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Personal]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Political]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Reviews]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Travel]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Berlin]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Europe]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[literature]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Nazis]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[politics]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.carlowolff.com/?p=984</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I miss my parents lately, particularly now that I’ve read The Orientalist, Tom Reiss’ biography of Lev Nussimbaum, a tortured intellectual and prolific writer who lived while the great empires—the Ottoman, the Hapsburg, the Russian—died and totalitarianism took over. Nussimbaum was also known as Essad Bey and Kurban Said; he was a Jewish Orientalist whose [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img align="center" src="http://www.carlowolff.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/TheOrientalist1-e1275509141632.jpg" alt="The Orientalist" title="The Orientalist" width="125" height="200" class="size-full wp-image-992" /></p>
<p>I miss my parents lately, particularly now that I’ve read <a href="http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0812972767/carwol-20">The Orientalist,</a> Tom Reiss’ biography of Lev Nussimbaum, a tortured intellectual and prolific writer who lived while the great empires—the Ottoman, the Hapsburg, the Russian—died and totalitarianism took over. Nussimbaum was also known as Essad Bey and Kurban Said; he was a Jewish Orientalist whose greatest talent was self-invention.</p>
<p>Nussimbaum was born five months after my mother, in Baku, Azerbaijan, a city where there were oil fires above ground when he was a child. Baku, in Reiss’ telling, sounds like it came from The Arabian Nights.</p>
<p>My mother, who was quite a party girl, might have known Lev in the ‘20s when both were living in Berlin, a city Reiss captures with extraordinary vividness. Berlin in the Weimar period must have been a delight. If time travel were possible, I’d be there.</p>
<p>Nussimbaum’s is a story of displacement and exile. The book unearths history I had never imagined and helps explain why my parents, like the fascism-prone, Bolshevik-hating Nussimbaum, fled Germany for Italy in the early ‘30s (Italy wasn’t officially anti-Semitic until 1938, the year of the Anschluss, when Germany annexed Austria and Hitler and Mussolini formalized their alliance). </p>
<p>One of the most original works of history I’ve ever read, Reiss’ book—which he developed because he’s the “child of German-speaking Jews trapped in Nazi Europe” (I’m the son of German Jews who got out just in time)—documents a fantastic man negotiating perilous, challenging times. We live in interesting times now, with the world collapsing economically, forcing political accommodations that will be strenuous indeed. But Nussimbaum’s short career—he died, gangrenous and in great pain, in 1942—celebrates a degree of ingenuity and inventiveness rarely called for these days.</p>
<p>It also makes me very happy my parents made it to America, where you can breathe relatively freely. I wish I’d recorded more of their stories.</p>
<p>Also, visit <a href="http://www.tomreiss.info">Tom Reiss&#8217;s website.</a></p>
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		<title>Europe</title>
		<link>http://www.carlowolff.com/2010/05/07/europe/</link>
		<comments>http://www.carlowolff.com/2010/05/07/europe/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 07 May 2010 20:02:39 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Carlo</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Hotels]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Personal]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Political]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Travel]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[economics]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Europe]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Nazi era]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.carlowolff.com/?p=976</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I’m staying in the Dolce Sitges north of Barcelona and Barcelona just outscored Milan, Italy in soccer. I’m in a bar in a beautiful hotel in a sunny suburb of a gorgeous city that nevertheless just lost its grip on a contest that rivets this continent like football does in the United States. Good to [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I’m staying in the <a href="http://www.dolce-sitges-hotel.com/photo-gallery/photo-gallery.asp">Dolce Sitges</a> north of Barcelona and Barcelona just outscored Milan, Italy in soccer. I’m in a bar in a beautiful hotel in a sunny suburb of a gorgeous city that nevertheless just lost its grip on a contest that rivets this continent like football does in the United States. Good to be here even though I’m in a country with 20 percent unemployment that today, April 27, saw its credit rating reduced to junk.<br />
<div id="attachment_980" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 235px"><a href="http://www.carlowolff.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/Gaudis-church-in-Barcelona.jpg"><img src="http://www.carlowolff.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/Gaudis-church-in-Barcelona-225x300.jpg" alt="" title="Gaudi&#039;s church in Barcelona" width="225" height="300" class="size-medium wp-image-980" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Antonio Gaudi's Sagrada Familia in Barcelona is Catholicism on LSD.</p></div></p>
<p>I’m with friends on a hotel trip that’s deeply wearing  but stimulating, on a continent that seems to be imploding but is still vital, authoritative and elegant. Here, trains are high-speed, cars are efficient, you can walk the cities, health care isn’t a fight. Shows you the U.S. has a long way to go.</p>
<p>A week later, however, Europe’s troubles are dragging down the world, stymieing what looks like an embryonic U.S. recovery. I don’t understand how a continent so apparently progressive can be in imminent danger of collapse. Too much community, it seems. It’s great to be all for one and  one for all when the economy is on the way up, but one drags down all when it’s tanking.</p>
<p>But I ramble. The trip went from April 22 to May 1. We visited Belgium (Brussels was much more attractive than I expected), France (a day in Paris was expectedly delightful and Provence was ravishing), Spain, and Munich, Germany. I spent less than two hours at Dachau Concentration Camp, just long enough to chill at the recognition that it’s not just the evil the Nazis did, it’s how systematic and efficient that was.<br />
<div id="attachment_978" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 310px"><a href="http://www.carlowolff.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/Welcome-to-Dachau.jpg"><img src="http://www.carlowolff.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/Welcome-to-Dachau-300x225.jpg" alt="" title="Welcome to Dachau" width="300" height="225" class="size-medium wp-image-978" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Dachau was the first Nazi concentration camp, a model for all the others.</p></div></p>
<p>I hope I go back. Each major city I visited—Brussels, Paris, Marseille, Barcelona and Munich—is a world of its own. I&#8217;m a Europhile. </p>
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		<title>An apology to my website</title>
		<link>http://www.carlowolff.com/2010/02/10/an-apology-to-my-website/</link>
		<comments>http://www.carlowolff.com/2010/02/10/an-apology-to-my-website/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 10 Feb 2010 18:19:57 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Carlo</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Books]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Hotels]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Music]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Personal]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Travel]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[literature]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Movies]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[New Orleans]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Rock 'n' roll]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Seafood]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.carlowolff.com/?p=888</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I&#8217;ve been neglectful of my website. It’s been nearly a month since I updated. I’ve been very busy, but it’s time to catch up. In mid-December, my wife suggested I e-mail as many people as I could think of to tell them I wanted to engage more. Being semi-retired can be lonely, even when there’s [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I&#8217;ve been neglectful of my website. It’s been nearly a month since I updated. I’ve been very busy, but it’s time to catch up.</p>
<p>In mid-December, my wife suggested I e-mail as many people as I could think of to tell them I wanted to engage more. Being semi-retired can be lonely, even when there’s work at home; I’ve been looking for part-time work outside home for a while, and haven’t gotten that. Part of that is the economy; a bigger part is that when you apply online—the only way to search for a job these days—you’re very likely to disappear into the digital void. It’s a buyer’s market, an impersonal one. Anyhow.</p>
<p>I e-mailed about 100 people in my various circles and got a gang of invitations to lunch and coffee, some virtual get well cards (“sorry about your situation; I’ll keep my ears open”) and some good work. The best was an assignment to write the history of rock and roll in Cleveland from the <a href="http://rockhall.org">Rock and Roll Hall of Fame and Museum</a> for its website. I’ve already turned in my intro; it should be online in about a month. I think this will become an ongoing relationship. I might also get some museum-related work in the future. My outreach e-mail was a winner.</p>
<p>Other catch-up: Lylah and I went to New Orleans in January, arriving the night the Saints beat the Cardinals. The city was cool; it’s great the Saints won the Super Bowl. Now the Cavs have to do something similar for Cleveland. Traveling with Lylah was fun; she had a blast photographing scenes from that very scenic place, one of the best in the country for architecture. It’s becoming one of my favorite cities; if you go, be sure to eat at <a href="http://domenicarestaurant.com">Domenica,</a> in the Roosevelt, and at <a href="http://acmeoyster.com">Acme Oyster House</a>, in the Quarter.<br />
<div id="attachment_894" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 310px"><a href="http://www.carlowolff.com/2010/02/10/an-apology-to-my-website/img_5549/" rel="attachment wp-att-894"><img src="http://www.carlowolff.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/IMG_5549-300x200.jpg" alt="" title="Now that&#039;s a cuppa!" width="300" height="200" class="size-medium wp-image-894" /></a><div id="attachment_895" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 310px"><p class="wp-caption-text">At the Cafe du Monde</p></div><a href="http://www.carlowolff.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/IMG_5587.jpg"><img src="http://www.carlowolff.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/IMG_5587-300x225.jpg" alt="" title="On the way to the Garden District" width="300" height="225" class="size-medium wp-image-895" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">A fellow New Orleans tourist snapped this for us</p></div></p>
<p>Pleasures of the season: the snow is beautiful but getting old, like the cold. Walking the dog is a pleasure; Pearl likes the snow, likes getting her coat frosted. In the next three weeks, Karen, Katy and Lylah all have their birthdays, so I’ve been busy assembling gifts and the money to pay for them.</p>
<p>Recommendations: Avatar in 3D; the Coen brothers’ A Serious Man (very Jewish, very weird, quite interesting); Crazy Heart (Jeff Bridges is better than the movie, which works despite itself); Jimmy McDonough’s biography of Tammy Wynette; The Nels Cline Singers’ Initiate, and Reclamation, by the Stephan Crump Rosetta Trio.</p>
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		<title>The western trek</title>
		<link>http://www.carlowolff.com/2009/11/01/the-western-trek/</link>
		<comments>http://www.carlowolff.com/2009/11/01/the-western-trek/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 01 Nov 2009 13:46:56 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Carlo</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Hotels]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Personal]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Travel]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Arizona]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Desert]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Education]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.carlowolff.com/?p=775</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Katy and I went to Arizona in the third week of October to look at Arizona State University in Phoenix and the University of Arizona in Tucson. Katy&#8217;s a senior at Beaumont School and is interested in psychology. She has a gift for it, working with kids with special disabilities the past two summers in [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Katy and I went to Arizona in the third week of October to look at <a href="http://www.asu.edu/">Arizona State University</a> in Phoenix and the <a href="http://www.arizona.edu">University of Arizona</a> in Tucson. Katy&#8217;s a senior at <a href="http://www.beaumontschool.org">Beaumont School</a> and is interested in psychology. She has a gift for it, working with kids with special disabilities the past two summers in downtown Cleveland. She loves that job.</p>
<p>Arizona State was gigantic—69,000 students at four separate Phoenix-area campuses—and the Tempe campus is very attractive. It&#8217;s the kind of place where you can create your own career, it seems. The facilities were excellent, the weather the week of Oct. 19 gorgeous. The Tucson campus was more logically laid out and more manageable; that city is probably a fifth the size of Phoenix, too, so the scale is easier to handle.</p>
<p>We must see whether Katy gets into either school or both; she has also applied to <a href="http://www.osu.edu">Ohio State University</a> and <a href="http://www.denison.edu">Denison</a>, a private school in southern Ohio. Our trip—our first together—was a lot of fun. We stayed in three different hotels—including two nights at a modern Best Western in Phoenix, where we wound up so I could cover a <a href="http://www.hotelnewsnow.com/Articles.aspx?ArticleId=2109">Best Western</a> convention—and got along really well. My favorite memory is of stopping at the <a href="http://www.roadsideamerica.com/story/2425">Tom Mix Memorial</a> in Florence, where we met Jim and Mary, a motorcycle couple from Phoenix.</p>
<p><img src="http://www.carlowolff.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/Katy-and-me-250x300.jpg" alt="Katy and me" title="Katy and me" width="250" height="300" class="aligncenter size-medium wp-image-788" /></p>
<p><img src="http://www.carlowolff.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/Jim-and-Mary-261x300.jpg" alt="Jim and Mary" title="Jim and Mary" width="261" height="300" class="aligncenter size-medium wp-image-790" /></p>
<p>Never exchanged addresses but we did exchange kindly words. The encounter made the desert feels less deserted. </p>
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		<title>Stuff I’ve been working on</title>
		<link>http://www.carlowolff.com/2009/09/29/stuff-i%e2%80%99ve-been-working-on/</link>
		<comments>http://www.carlowolff.com/2009/09/29/stuff-i%e2%80%99ve-been-working-on/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 29 Sep 2009 17:47:01 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Carlo</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Music]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Northern Ohio]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Personal]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Travel]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[jazz]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[literature]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[politics]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[table tennis]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.carlowolff.com/?p=693</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I’m writing about jazz again. Just cobbled together a feature about Cleveland-based jazz saxophonist Bobby Selvaggio, who’s working his new CD, Modern Times. Just wrote a short about Fra Fra Sound, an Amsterdam septet whose Dya So CD is cool world music. These are for Scene. I’m also writing debut columns for a yet-to-be-announced, Cleveland-based [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I’m writing about jazz again. Just cobbled together a feature about Cleveland-based jazz saxophonist <a href="http://www.bobbyselvaggio.com">Bobby Selvaggio</a>, who’s working his new CD, <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Modern-Times-Bobby-Selvaggio/dp/B002AT8BGO">Modern Times</a>. Just wrote a short about <a href="http://www.frafrasound.com">Fra Fra Sound</a>, an Amsterdam septet whose <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Dya-So-Fra-Sound/dp/B0012OVEHQ">Dya So</a> CD is cool world music. These are for <a href="http://www.clevescene.com">Scene</a>.</p>
<p>I’m also writing debut columns for a yet-to-be-announced, Cleveland-based news portal that will debut in November. My first two will be about the head of the <a href="http://www.civicinnovationlab.org">Civic Innovation Lab</a> and my friend <a href="http://www.pechsography.com">Dave Pech</a>, a photographer who happens to make Ping-Pong paddles.</p>
<p>I just returned from a trip to Phoenix for a lodging conference. I stayed at the <a href="http://www.arizonabiltmore.com">Arizona Biltmore</a>, one of the nicest hotels in the U.S. The conference was by no means upbeat—occupancy and rate are way down—but it was great to be warm for a few days after this chilly summer.</p>
<p>Oh, yes. Sunday night, Karen and I are going to be reading at <a href="http://nighttowncleveland.com/documents/WiseUpPoster-14inches.pdf">Wise Up!</a>, a benefit for the Cleveland Heights Public Library. I’m going to tell very short stories about jazz—fitting for <a href="http://www.nighttowncleveland.com">Nighttown</a>, where Wise Up! will be staged.</p>
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		<title>Maybe we can’t</title>
		<link>http://www.carlowolff.com/2009/08/18/maybe-we-can%e2%80%99t/</link>
		<comments>http://www.carlowolff.com/2009/08/18/maybe-we-can%e2%80%99t/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 18 Aug 2009 18:03:01 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Carlo</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Personal]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Political]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Travel]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Blue Dogs]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Jon Stewart]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[MSNBC]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Obama]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.carlowolff.com/?p=535</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I just read Politico’s story on liberal pundit dismay with Obama. I’m alarmed myself. Obama’s waffling on health care reform, apparently ready to sacrifice a public option to insurance and pharmacy interests (forget single payer). He hasn’t lifted the Cuban embargo despite calls for air travel from here to there, not just from there to [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I just read <a href="http://www.politico.com/news/stories/0809/26215.html">Politico’s</a> story on liberal pundit dismay with Obama. I’m alarmed myself. Obama’s waffling on health care reform, apparently ready to sacrifice a public option to insurance and pharmacy interests (forget single payer). He hasn’t lifted the Cuban embargo despite <a href="http://www.opencuba.org">calls for air travel from here to there</a>, not just from there to here. He hasn’t abolished Don’t Ask, Don’t Tell, let alone supported gay marriage (yeah, right, it’s a state issue).</p>
<p>What’s happened to Obama, who as a campaigner was the best politician I’d ever seen? Apparently, he can’t lead, only synthesize, only accommodate. God knows I’m no fan of Republicans, but as Jon Stewart said, they had the discipline to sell the public on a disastrous war. Maybe Obama’s working health care reform like a wimp to appease the center right the polls say rule the country. Maybe he’s doing it because of a grander scheme he’ll unveil after midterm elections next year—if the Democratic majority holds, which it may not because of health care reform waffling.</p>
<p>I voted for Obama because I thought he was a liberal ready and canny enough to spearhead major social change, including health care reform that would result in a system similar to those in much of Europe and Canada. I’m not so sure anymore. I hope he pushes back Blue Dogs and ignores Republicans (except for those Maine ladies). I hope he has the spine to match his intellect and the will to move the country forward.</p>
<p>People complain he has bitten off more than he can chew. I hope Obama has the courage to bite down even harder.  </p>
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		<title>Helpless</title>
		<link>http://www.carlowolff.com/2009/07/24/helpless/</link>
		<comments>http://www.carlowolff.com/2009/07/24/helpless/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 24 Jul 2009 20:18:38 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Carlo</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Personal]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Political]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Travel]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[India]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.carlowolff.com/?p=497</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[So I’m leaving the Taj Mahal the early afternoon of July 15 and it’s unbelievably hot and to get to the tour bus I have to run a vendor and beggar gauntlet unlike any I’ve ever encountered including one kind of like this outside the Great Wall of China. Only this one puts vendors and [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>So I’m leaving the Taj Mahal the early afternoon of July 15 and it’s unbelievably hot and to get to the tour bus I have to run a vendor and beggar gauntlet unlike any I’ve ever encountered including one kind of like this outside the Great Wall of China.</p>
<p>Only this one puts vendors and beggars into competition—in China, they were somehow separate—so the main feeling a spoiled western tourist like me has is of being put upon, harassed. I don’t want to buy a Taj Mahal snowglobe or one of those thick red bullwhips vendors keep thrusting at me.</p>
<p>I’m heading across a short bridge and the tour bus is in sight when I see a man on all fours with a hand out toward me. He’s on all fours because that’s how he’s built. I can’t really see the man. All I see is the deformity.</p>
<p>I don’t speak his language, I don’t know what to do, even though I have some rupees on me. I feel ashamed, privileged beyond my right. I wonder how the man got this way and what could be done/what he could do to change a condition so extreme it seems no amount of money in the world could fix it. Helplessness and anger and shame roil me.</p>
<p>I ask our tour guide why that man was that way. There were others in the area like that, too; one wasn’t on all fours but had similar stick, scuttling legs. It was phantasmagorical.</p>
<p>The guide told me it was about education; those men didn’t know enough to go where help, available under India’s system of free medical care, was available.</p>
<p>No matter. I can’t get the image of the man on all fours out of my mind. Taking a picture of him would have been blasphemous.</p>
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		<title>And now, from India&#8230;</title>
		<link>http://www.carlowolff.com/2009/07/20/and-now-from-india/</link>
		<comments>http://www.carlowolff.com/2009/07/20/and-now-from-india/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 20 Jul 2009 13:33:22 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Carlo</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Hotels]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Personal]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Travel]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Uncategorized]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[India]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.carlowolff.com/?p=476</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I&#8217;ve just arrived at the Leela Kempinski Goa on the coast of the Indian Ocean in the southwestern part of this fantastic country. It&#8217;s one of the most beautiful resorts I&#8217; ve ever seen. The per-night cost of the suite I&#8217;m typing this in approaches my monthly mortgage payment; no wonder it&#8217;s so relaxing. It [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I&#8217;ve just arrived at the <a href="http://www.theleela.com/hotel-goa.html">Leela Kempinski Goa</a> on the coast of the Indian Ocean in the southwestern part of this fantastic country. It&#8217;s one of the most beautiful resorts I&#8217;<br />
ve ever seen. The per-night cost of the suite I&#8217;m typing this in approaches my monthly mortgage payment; no wonder it&#8217;s so relaxing. It helps to have a personal, English-speaking butler like Bintedar. God knows I don&#8217;t speak Konkani, the local language—or any other Indian tongue. </p>
<p>I got into India very early a.m. July 13 after nearly two days of flying and layover. That first day was a blur, largely consisting of meeting various Leela executives including its remarkable chairman C.K. Nair, who is in his 80s, has seen it all and remains enthusiastic.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.carlowolff.com/2009/07/20/and-now-from-india/leela-chairman-ck-nair/" rel="attachment wp-att-479"><img src="http://www.carlowolff.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/Leela-Chairman-CK-NaIr-225x300.jpg" alt="Leela Chairman CK NaIr" title="Leela Chairman CK NaIr" width="225" height="300" class="aligncenter size-medium wp-image-479" /></a></p>
<p>On July 14, we went to the heart of one of the many subcities of Delhi, to old, old markets where I and another journalist on this fascinating press trip occupied a narrow, hard seat in a bicycle rickshaw. Our driver took us through the narrowest, busiest streets I&#8217;ve ever seen. I can&#8217;t recall ever being this hot &#8216;n&#8217; sweaty (hey, the heat&#8217;s dry in Phoenix and Dubai) or as saturated by atmosphere. The streets were so tight no way anything motorized other than auto rickshaws (covered Vespas seating four thin folk) could work them. The cost of the  ride was covered by the PR agency that sent me to India, but at the end, the driver, who pushed a sickly beggar kid off me during it, wanted a big tip. We gave him 300 rupees (about $6.25) when Pamela, my seatmate, added 100 to my 200, exceeding the norm. The guy was demanding and shameless and I didn&#8217;t like his attitude. Then I thought to myself, where the hell do I come off begrudging someone who just nearly worked himself to death pampering me? I want to kill my inner Ugly American.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.carlowolff.com/2009/07/20/and-now-from-india/the-delhi-rickshaw-driver/" rel="attachment wp-att-480"><img src="http://www.carlowolff.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/The-Delhi-rickshaw-driver-225x300.jpg" alt="The Delhi rickshaw driver" title="The Delhi rickshaw driver" width="225" height="300" class="aligncenter size-medium wp-image-480" /></a></p>
<p>The next day our band of 10, half of them journalists, rode four and a half hours south to the state of Uttar Pradesh, home to Agra, home to the Taj Mahal. Our bus driver was a hero, dodging bullets mechanical and animal over iffy roadway. We arrived around 11:30 a.m. and the sun was relentless as we entered the site, which is much bigger than I thought it would be. Like Beijing&#8217;s Forbidden City, it&#8217;s massive; that&#8217;s why it&#8217;s called monumental. It&#8217;s also dazzlingly white, even radiant, its calligraphy and gemstone marble inlay gorgeous, its shimmer and magnetism undeniable. I now understand the term &#8220;mogul&#8221; and am beginning to glimpse how complex and challenging are the area&#8217;s politics.<br />
<a href="http://www.carlowolff.com/2009/07/20/and-now-from-india/me-at-the-taj-mahal/" rel="attachment wp-att-481"><img src="http://www.carlowolff.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/Me-at-the-Taj-Mahal-300x225.jpg" alt="Me at the Taj Mahal" title="Me at the Taj Mahal" width="300" height="225" class="aligncenter size-medium wp-image-481" /></a></p>
<p>Before I descend into fatuousness, I&#8217;ll cut this short. India makes you reconsider your viewpoint, your conceptions, your preconceptions. I&#8217;ll write more about the trip to Agra next time I blog. I have to get ready for a trip to Atlanta today (it&#8217;s July 20) so goodbye for now.</p>
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		<title>Welcome to the new carlowolff.com</title>
		<link>http://www.carlowolff.com/2009/05/25/welcome-to-the-new-carlowolffcom/</link>
		<comments>http://www.carlowolff.com/2009/05/25/welcome-to-the-new-carlowolffcom/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 25 May 2009 16:39:49 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Carlo</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Travel]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Honduras]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.carlowolff.com/?p=283</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I want to thank my wife, the gifted multimedia artist Karen Sandstrom, for outfitting my website with this new header, and I want to thank website facilitator Dave Miyares for fitting it and my “old” blog into this new template. I also want to thank the technocommunications expert Penny Stetz for advice in setting it [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I want to thank my wife, the gifted multimedia artist <a href="http://karensandstrom.blogspot.com/">Karen Sandstrom</a>, for outfitting my website with this new header, and I want to thank website facilitator Dave Miyares for fitting it and my “old” blog into this new template. I also want to thank  the technocommunications expert Penny Stetz for advice in setting it up and schooling me on how to feed it. I’m getting better with putting links into the thing, though I still have trouble with photos.<br />

<a href='http://www.carlowolff.com/2009/05/25/welcome-to-the-new-carlowolffcom/honduras-09-242/' title='More Gumbalimba Park'><img width="150" height="150" src="http://www.carlowolff.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/honduras-09-242-150x150.jpg" class="attachment-thumbnail" alt="My gentle touch puts this Capuchin monkey to sleep." title="More Gumbalimba Park" /></a>
<a href='http://www.carlowolff.com/2009/05/25/welcome-to-the-new-carlowolffcom/honduras-09-231/' title='At Gumbalimba Park, Honduras'><img width="150" height="150" src="http://www.carlowolff.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/honduras-09-231-150x150.jpg" class="attachment-thumbnail" alt="Me and my macaw." title="At Gumbalimba Park, Honduras" /></a>
<br />
I hope these pictures from a recent press trip I took to Honduras amuse and entertain you. I’ve never had a macaw perch on my shoulder, let alone held a sleepy, five-month-old Capuchin monkey. The trip itself was tiring; we were on the run for nearly six days, visiting all kinds of tourist spots including the fabulous Mayan ruins of Copan. Bummer: I lost my camera. Upside: Manos Angelakis, a classy gentleman who operates the website <a href="http://luxuryweb.com/">luxuryweb.com</a>, helped me by providing these photos.</p>
<p><BR /></p>
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		<title>Flying</title>
		<link>http://www.carlowolff.com/2009/01/17/flying/</link>
		<comments>http://www.carlowolff.com/2009/01/17/flying/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 18 Jan 2009 01:31:03 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Carlo</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Travel]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.carlowolff.com/?p=160</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[On Jan. 16, when I first heard of US Airways flight 1549 landing in the Hudson River off Manhattan, I called my wife into the bedroom to watch the news. It was good. She agreed, and she’s had fear of flying for years. Maybe from now on she’ll travel lighter in her head. I want [...]]]></description>
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<p class="MsoNormal">On Jan. 16, when I first heard of US Airways flight 1549 landing in the Hudson River off Manhattan, I called my wife into the bedroom to watch the news. It was good. She agreed, and she’s had fear of flying for years. Maybe from now on she’ll travel lighter in her head. I want to travel with her. No problem for me with travel.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal"> No need to recap the “miracle” of the plane that landed in the Hudson, in a perfectly executed maneuver with no lives lost. But there’s need to underline its significance, especially for Karen, who’s been scared to fly since 9/11. I suspect she’ll be better about flying after the story of flight 1549. Everything worked just right. What happened attested to competence, care,. concern, training and expertise.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal"> Which brings me to Tuesday, when Barack Obama becomes president. I watched Dubya’s “farewell address” and begrudgingly acknowledge his discipline and spine. But I’m so glad to see him go; I plan a double toast on Tuesday (at least), heralding Bush’s departure and Obama’s arrival.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal"> The Obamas and Bidens are on the train right now, reprising the journey Abraham Lincoln took to the presidency. God speed. God willing, they augur a fabulous administration. The cabinet choices are good (Geithner seems shaky, however) and what Obama has been saying about what he wants to do rings true. And he has enormous goodwill going into the job, which I’m sure he will do well, remaining human and accessible and true to himself and a family man and eloquent all the time.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">The landing of  flight 1549 is perfect prologue to what I hope will be a time of uplift, progress, evolution. We’ve been backsliding for years, certainly during the Bush administration (and even, to some extent, under Clinton). Now it’s time not only to catch up but exceed, bringing health to all, an end to discrimination, meaningful work for those who need it, a meaningful, purposeful, environmentally responsible and politically impeccable life to all. Not to mention the closing of Guantanamo, the conquering of AIDS, the end of genocide, the transformation of our penal system…I could go on. I’ll be watching. And, hopefully, visiting the strange with my wife without fear.</p>
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